标签 英格兰 下的文章

白霜覆盖下的山毛榉林,英格兰多塞特郡 Beech woodland in hoar frost, Cranborne Chase, Dorset, England (© Guy Edwardes/Minden Pictures)

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白霜覆盖下的山毛榉林,英格兰多塞特郡 Beech woodland in hoar frost, Cranborne Chase, Dorset, England (© Guy Edwardes/Minden Pictures)

被白霜覆盖的毛榉林 Beech forest covered in hoarfrost

Cranborne Chase, England

If this looks to you like the setting of a fairy tale, you're not alone. These surroundings have long inspired writers and painters alike. Naturally, Cranborne Chase, England, has been designated a national protected area because of its natural beauty. It may be especially beautiful in winter, when the trees and shrubs can be coated with hoarfrost, an uncommon type of frost that forms when water vapor turns directly into ice, skipping the liquid stage.

Cranborne Chase is a plateau in southern England touching the counties of Dorset, Hampshire, Somerset, and Wiltshire. These 380 square miles of diverse countryside include rolling grasslands, river valleys, hillsides, and ancient woodlands. The area has been inhabited since the stone age, and for centuries was a royal hunting ground—in fact, the word 'chase' derives from these hunts. Today, while Cranborne Chase is protected from most new development, it's not a wilderness—nearly 90% of the land is used for farming and more than 30,000 people live here.

英国克兰伯恩蔡斯

如果你觉得这就像童话故事的背景,那么你并不孤单。长期以来,这些环境一直激励着作家和画家。自然地,英格兰的克兰伯恩蔡斯因其自然美景而被指定为国家保护区。在冬天木和灌木丛可能会被白霜覆盖,这是一种罕见的霜,当水蒸气直接变成,跳过液体阶段时形成。

克兰伯恩蔡斯是英格兰南部的一个高原,与多塞特汉普郡萨默塞特和威尔特郡接壤。这380平方英里的多样化乡村包括起伏的草原河谷、山坡和古老的林地。该地区自石器时代起就有人居住,几个世纪以来一直是皇家狩猎场。事实上,“追逐”一词源自这些狩猎。如今,尽管克兰伯恩蔡斯受到保护,不受大多数新开发项目的影响,但它并不是一片荒野。近90%的土地用于农业,有3万多人居住在这里。

莱达尔湖, 英格兰坎布里亚郡湖区 Rydal Water in the Lake District, Cumbria, England (© Tranquillian1/iStock/Getty Images Plus)

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莱达尔, 英格兰坎布里亚湖区 Rydal Water in the Lake District, Cumbria, England (© Tranquillian1/iStock/Getty Images Plus)

Rydal Water in the Lake District, Cumbria, England

Reflecting winter skies and frozen fells in our homepage image is Rydal Water, one of the smallest but prettiest lakes in the Lake District. Rydal Water is one of the two lakes most associated with William Wordsworth, one of England’s greatest poets. (The other is neighbouring Grasmere, to which Rydal is connected by the River Rothay.) Wordsworth lived around these bodies of water, first at Dove Cottage and later Rydal Mount, between 1799 and 1850, writing some of his best-known works and hosting leading lights of the Romantic movement, including his friend, Samuel Taylor Coleridge. To the western edge of the lake is Wordsworth’s Seat, a rocky outcrop said to be the writer’s favourite spot.

Rydal Water is in a glacial valley, one of 13 valleys in the Lake District. Partly owned by the National Trust, it sits at the foot of Loughrigg Fell and has been known to freeze over on winter days like this one. You can walk around Rydal Water and take in Wordsworth’s former homes as well as passing by Rydal Cave in the hill above the lake. Surrounded by woodland, pasture and craggy fells, with several historic properties and beautifully designed landscapes, this is an inspiring place for aspiring poets, whatever the season.

英格兰坎布里亚湖区的赖德尔水

赖达尔湖是湖区最小但最美丽的湖泊之一,它反映了我们主页图像中季的天空和冻的森林。莱德尔湖是与英国最伟大的诗人之一威廉·华兹华斯联系最为密切的两个湖泊之一。(另一个是邻近的格拉斯米尔,莱德尔与之相连。)1799年至1850年间,华兹华斯生活在这些水域周围,先是在多夫小屋,后是莱德尔,他写了一些最著名的作品,并主持了浪漫主义运动的主要活动,包括他的朋友塞缪尔·泰勒·柯勒律治。湖的西边是华兹华斯的所在地,据说这是作家最喜欢的地方。

莱德尔河位于一个冰川峡谷中,是湖区13个山谷之一。部分归国家信托基金所有,坐落在Loughrigg Fall脚下,在像这样的冬天会结冰。你可以在莱达尔水边散步,参观华兹华斯的故居,也可以经过湖上小山上的莱达尔洞穴。这里被林地、牧场和崎岖的小林所环绕,有几处历史古迹和设计精美的景观,无论什么季节,这都是一个让有抱负的诗人感到振奋的地方。

约克郡谷地国家公园里的山丘,英格兰 Howgill Fells in the Yorkshire Dales National Park, England (© davidnmoorhouse/iStock/Getty Images Plus)

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约克郡谷地国家公园里的山丘英格兰 Howgill Fells in the Yorkshire Dales National Park, England (© davidnmoorhouse/iStock/Getty Images Plus)

Between the Lakes and the Dales

Nestled between the Yorkshire Dales and the Lake District, the smooth rounded shapes and steep gills (ravines) of the Howgill Fells capture an eye-catching pattern of light and shade. These ancient hills, formed more than 400 million years ago, have remained a largely settlement-free zone, uncrossed by roads and untouched by development. Trees are scarce on the high ground, where sheep and wild ponies graze and small streams tumble down dark, narrow gullies and the panoramic views from the fells are a sight worth climbing for. The highest point is the top of The Calf, at 2,218ft (676m), from where hikers can enjoy a 20-mile skyline of the Lakeland peaks, the Yorkshire Three Peaks and the nearer Howgill peaks.

Part of the range sits within Yorkshire Dales National Park, although they are actually in the county of Cumbria. The Howgill Fells’ striking appearance was perhaps best summed up by the famed fell walker and guide book author A. Wainwright as “sleek and smooth, looking from a distance like velvet curtains in sunlight, like silken drapes at sunset … a remarkable concentration of summits often likened to a huddle of squatting elephants”.

与谷之间

坐落在约克郡山谷湖区之间的豪吉尔森林,平滑的圆形和陡峭的鳃(沟壑)捕捉到了引人注目的明暗模式。这些形成于4亿多年前的古老丘一直是一个基本上没有定居点的区域,没有道路交叉,也没有开发。高地木稀少,绵羊和野马在那里吃草,小溪从黑暗狭窄的沟壑中滚滚而下,从山林中俯瞰全景是一个值得攀登的景观。最高点是小牛的顶部,海拔2218英尺(676米),徒步旅行者可以在这里欣赏20英里的湖畔山峰、约克郡三峰和更近的豪吉尔峰的天际线。

部分山脉位于约克郡山谷国家公园内,尽管它们实际上位于坎布里亚县。豪吉尔·费尔斯引人注目的外表也许是著名的费尔沃克和导游作者A的最佳概括。温赖特被称为“滑光滑,从远处看,就像阳光下的天鹅绒窗帘,像日落时的丝绸窗帘……山峰的显著集中常常被比作一群蹲着的大象”。

文斯利代尔,英格兰约克郡谷地国家公园 Wensleydale, Yorkshire Dales National Park, North Yorkshire, England (© Guy Edwardes/Minden Pictures)

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文斯利代尔,英格兰约克郡谷地国家公园 Wensleydale, Yorkshire Dales National Park, North Yorkshire, England (© Guy Edwardes/Minden Pictures)

'Cheese! We'll go somewhere where there's cheese!'

Ahh, the pastoral countryside of the Yorkshire Dales in Northern England. Dewey mornings, grazing farm animals, hand-built dry stone walls, and…cheese? Well, if you're a fan of the beloved British claymation series 'Wallace & Gromit,' then you may have first heard of this area of the Yorkshires, Wensleydale, because of its local cheese. In fact, the animated duo's notorious affinity for the local curd--which Wallace likes because producers thought it makes his face look 'nice and toothy'—became so widespread that it helped the Wensleydale cheesemakers stave off bankruptcy.

Cheese aside, another staple of Wensleydale, and the surrounding Yorkshire Dales National Park, are the 5,000 miles of dry stone walls that have crisscrossed the landscape for centuries. The walls were built by farmers to delineate boundaries, clarify land ownership, and more practically, to keep their cows and sheep from wandering off. The walls are considered 'dry' because they were built with no mortar to bind the stones together. Larger stones form a base for the wall, upon which smaller stones are stacked to create two parallel wall faces, constructed simultaneously. More stones are then used to fill in the gap between the two wall faces, with gravity doing the rest. While that may sound flimsy, a well-constructed dry stone wall can last at least 100 years.

“奶酪!我们要去有奶酪的地方

啊,英格兰北部约克郡山谷的田园乡村。杜威的早晨,放牧的农场动物,手工建造的干石墙,还有……奶酪?好吧,如果你是一个喜爱的英国粘土系列'华莱士和格罗米特'的粉丝,那么你可能第一次听说这个地区的约克郡,温斯莱代尔,因为它的当地奶酪。事实上,这对动画片中的二人组对当地乳酪臭名昭著的亲和力——华莱士喜欢这种乳酪,因为制作人认为这种乳酪能让他的脸看起来“又漂亮又有牙齿”——变得如此广泛,这帮助温斯利代尔奶酪制造商避免了破产。

除了奶酪之外,温斯莱代尔的另一大主食,以及周围的约克郡戴尔国家公园,都是绵延5000英里的干石墙,几个世纪以来,这些石墙纵横交错。这些围墙是由农民建造的,目的是划定边界,明确土地所有权,更实际的是,防止他们的牛羊四处游荡。这些墙被认为是“干的”,因为它们建造时没有用砂浆将石头粘合在一起。较大的石头形成墙的基础,较小的石头堆放在上面,形成两个平行的墙面,同时建造。然后用更多的石头填充两个墙面之间的缝隙,剩下的部分由重力来完成。虽然这听起来很脆弱,但一座建造良好的干石墙至少可以使用100年。

莱姆里杰斯的Cobb防波堤,英格兰多塞特 The Cobb breakwater, Lyme Regis, Dorset, England (© Ross Hoddinott/Offset by Shutterstock)

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莱姆里杰斯的Cobb防波堤,英格兰多塞特 The Cobb breakwater, Lyme Regis, Dorset, England (© Ross Hoddinott/Offset by Shutterstock)

Holding back the tide

Shrugging off choppy waters on England’s south-west coast is the historic harbour and breakwater known as the Cobb. There has been one man-made structure or another in the waters off Lyme Regis since medieval times, without which much of this Dorset town may have been washed away. While its harbour seems small to modern eyes, Lyme Regis grew as a major port and shipbuilding centre from the 13th century onwards, thanks to the Cobb and the protection it offered from fierce south-westerly gales.

The long, curving High Wall featured in our homepage image offers a great lookout spot from which to enjoy panoramic views of this stretch of the Jurassic Coast, a World Heritage Site famous for its fossils. This section, built in Portland Stone, dates back to the 1820s and famously features in a scene with Meryl Streep’s character in The French Lieutenant’s Woman. If you choose to follow in her footsteps, be warned: The Cobb can be as treacherous as it is breathtaking, even when waves are not crashing against it. Algae can make its surface slippery and there is no handrail to grab if you lose your footing, so choose a calm day to enjoy a stroll along the top and even then, tread carefully.

抑制潮流

在英格兰西南海岸的波涛汹涌的海面上耸肩的是历史悠久的港口和被称为科布的防波堤。自中世纪以来,莱姆里吉斯附近的水域就有这样或那样的人造建筑,如果没有这些建筑,多塞特镇的大部分地区可能会被冲走。在现代人看来,莱姆雷吉斯的口似乎很小,但从13世纪起,由于科布和它所提供的抵御西南狂风的保护,莱姆雷吉斯逐渐成为一个主要的港口和造中心。

在我们的主页图片中,长而弯曲的高墙提供了一个绝佳的了望点,从这里可以欣赏侏罗纪海岸的全景,侏罗纪海岸是一个以化石闻名的世界遗产地。这一部分建于波特兰石,可以追溯到19世纪20年代,以梅丽尔·斯特里普在《法国中尉的女人》中的角色而闻名。如果你选择跟随她的脚步,要注意的是:柯布可能是危险的,因为它是惊人的,即使海浪没有撞击它。藻类会使它的表面很滑,如果你失去了你的脚,没有扶手可以抓住,所以选择一个平静的一天享受漫步沿顶部,即使这样,踏步小心。

索尔茲伯里大教堂与放牧的羊群,英格兰 Salisbury Cathedral with grazing flock of sheep, England (© Slawek Staszczuk Photo/Alamy)

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索尔茲伯里教堂与放牧的羊群,英格兰 Salisbury Cathedral with grazing flock of sheep, England (© Slawek Staszczuk Photo/Alamy)

Happy 800th, Salisbury Cathedral

We're in the English county of Wiltshire to celebrate the 800th anniversary of Salisbury Cathedral—the towering marvel of Early English Gothic design rising behind these contentedly grazing sheep. The massive church's first foundation stones were laid here in Salisbury—then called New Sarum—on April 28, 1220. The structure itself dates back even further, the bulk of it having been moved over a mile piece by piece from the former Roman stronghold of Old Sarum.

The building's main body was complete by the time the cathedral was consecrated in 1258, and the magnificent spire was finished in its centennial year, in 1320. Even taller towers were built for cathedrals in London and Lincoln, but the Salisbury spire outlived both of those and, for more than four centuries now, has been the tallest church spire in England.

夕阳下的椋鸟,英格兰布莱克浦 Starlings at sunset in Blackpool, England (© Mediaworld Images/Alamy)

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夕阳下的椋鸟,英格兰布莱克浦 Starlings at sunset in Blackpool, England (© Mediaworld Images/Alamy)

Mesmerizing murmuration

Around this time of year, as temperatures dip in the Northern Hemisphere, European or common starlings put on a dazzling show. Most of the time, these noisy birds are scorned for their bullying behavior at the birdfeeder. But in autumn months, they gather to roost in huge flocks, like here in Blackpool, England. At dusk, the starlings take flight en masse and flock together in a hypnotizing, swirling cloud of fluttering wings. This behavior is called mumuration. It's thought to help keep the birds warm while also acting as a defensive tactic to confuse predators like hawks and falcons. But maybe the raptors are just awestruck by the starlings' synchronized spectacle like the rest of us.