标签 冲浪 下的文章

在纳扎雷冲浪的冲浪者，葡萄牙 Surfer riding a wave in Nazaré, Portugal (© Rui Caria/Getty Images)

有志者事竟成 Where there's a will, there's a wave

世界冲浪日

今天是国际冲浪日，大家都在冲浪！这项活动在庆祝冲浪的同时，也提醒人们保护海洋环境的重要性，以及要为野生动物和冲浪者保持水域的纯净。冲浪有着悠久的历史：大约在5000年前的秘鲁，人们在出海捕鱼时用芦苇船冲浪。然而，现代冲浪运动是在前殖民时期的夏威夷诞生的。在这里，人们开始站在冲浪板上冲浪取乐。历史学家认为，冲浪于1885年传入美国，当时有三位十几岁的夏威夷王子在加利福尼亚的寄宿学校放假期间，在红木冲浪板上冲浪。

International Surfing Day

Let's hit the waves for International Surfing Day! This event both celebrates the sport and promotes protecting the ocean for wildlife and surfers alike. Surfing has a long history; around 5,000 years ago in Peru, people used reed watercraft to surf the waves when they were out fishing. Polynesians are believed to have brought their version of surfing to Hawaii, where modern surfing was born. Here, people started to stand on their boards and to surf for fun. Historians believe that surfing made its way to the US in 1885, when three teenage Hawaiian princes surfed on redwood boards while on a break from boarding school in California.

Today's image shows an intrepid surfer riding a wave at Nazaré, Portugal. This town on the Atlantic coast is known for its giant waves, which can reach over 100 feet in height. Thanks to these impressive breakers, several surf records have been broken here, including the biggest wave ever surfed—an incredible 86 feet. So, wax down your surfboards and go out and catch some waves!

在加利福尼亚州圣地亚哥举行的“为团结划桨”活动 'Paddle Out for Unity' event in San Diego, California (© Brandon Colbert Photography/Getty Images)

桨叶动力 Paddle power

国际冲浪日

国际冲浪日通过激发人们对冲浪的热情来促进对海洋的保护。
每年 6 月的第三个星期六，人们都会聚集在一起参加冲浪比赛、烧烤、海滩清理和其他活动，以帮助恢复和保护海洋环境。
为一项事业走到一起是全球冲浪社区的标志，无论是为了自然还是为了反对不公正，正如他们在 2020
年加利福尼亚州恩西尼塔斯举行的“为团结划桨”聚会上所做的那样，如图所示。

冲浪的历史可以追溯到12世纪的波利尼西亚，那里的人民将这项传统带到了夏威夷。冲浪运动于1885 年在加利福尼亚州圣克鲁斯附近首次在美国亮相，当时四位夏威夷王子在红木板上冲浪圣洛伦佐河。如今，冲浪运动已遍布全球。

International Surfing Day

International Surfing Day promotes the protection of the ocean alongside celebrating the sport itself, every year on the third Saturday in June. People gather for surfing contests, barbeques, beach cleanups, and other activities to help restore the ocean environment. Coming together for a cause is a hallmark of the global surfing community, whether campaigning for cleaner waters or standing together against injustice, as they did at the Paddle Out for Unity gathering in 2020 in Encinitas, California, pictured on our homepage.

Surfing traces back to 12th-century Polynesia, whose people carried the tradition to Hawaii. The sport made its US debut in 1885 near Santa Cruz, California, when four Hawaiian princes surfed the San Lorenzo River on redwood boards. Today, surfing has expanded around the world.

克罗地亚佩列沙茨半岛附近的风筝冲浪者和风帆冲浪者 Kitesurfers and windsurfers near the Pelješac Peninsula, Croatia (© helivideo/Getty Images)

既有风，又有水 Add wind, combine with water, and you'll get...

Kitesurfing and windsurfing in Croatia

Of the many ways people have invented to ride boards of one kind or another, the sport of kiteboarding or kitesurfing is one of the newest. It owes a debt to all the board sports that came before it, borrowing a little bit from snowboarding, water skiing, wakeboarding, and of course windsurfing. Like snowboarders and skiers, windsurfers and kitesurfers often share playspace, as they are doing here off the Peljesac Peninsula in Croatia, where you can count on a stiff afternoon breeze in the summer months when the land heats up and draws in the cool ocean air of the Adriatic.

Kiteboarding began to evolve in the 1990s. By separating the sail—in this case the kite, which is similar to a glider—from the board, kitesurfers gained more freedom to maneuver. The kites are inflated, giving them structure and the ability to float should they land on the water. Kiteboards meant to surf waves are pointed at one end; boards meant to ride over flat water are shaped the same at both ends.

克罗地亚的风筝冲浪和帆板运动

在人们发明的各种冲浪方式中，风筝冲浪运动是最新的一种。它欠了之前所有的滑板运动的债，从滑雪板、滑水、滑水板，当然还有帆板运动中借了一点。像滑雪板运动员和滑雪者一样，风帆冲浪者和风筝冲浪者经常共享游戏空间，就像他们在克罗地亚的Peljesac半岛附近所做的那样，在夏季，当陆地升温并吸入亚得里亚海凉爽的海洋空气时，你可以指望那里会有一股强劲的下午风。

风筝冲浪在20世纪90年代开始发展。通过将帆（在这种情况下是风筝，类似于滑翔机）从板上分离，风筝冲浪者获得了更多的机动自由。风筝是充气的，这样它们就有了结构，并能在降落到水面上时漂浮。用来冲浪的风筝板一端是尖的；用于在平坦水面上行驶的木板两端形状相同。

黄金海岸上的冲浪者，澳大利亚 Surfers catching waves at Palm Beach on the Gold Coast, Queensland, Australia (© Darren Tierney/Getty Images)

这是什么水上魔法？ What waterborne wizardry is this?

International Surfing Day

Of all the tricks humans have taught themselves, few delight and impress more than surfing. A sport, a pastime, an art, a philosophy of life, surfing is as close to magic as a person can perform on the untamed ocean. Today, the sport of wave riding gets its well-earned due with International Surfing Day, a time each year to honor the sport, the lifestyle of surfing, and the ocean itself, whose good health is vital to the sport and so much else. Surfers have a special connection to the ocean and the waves it produces. A surfable wave relies on so much: The winds hundreds or thousands of miles away that produced the energy to set the swells in motion—those swells might take days to arrive at the shoreline; and then the reef or point of land or underwater boulder upon which a swell will break into a perfectly shaped wave. Wind and timing are everything, and devoted surfers know the weather and the shore intimately.

Surfing can be done anywhere waves break, from Iceland to Ireland, Brazil to Senegal. But there are a handful of spots renowned for their waves, such as Hawaii, Tahiti, California, and the Gold Coast in Queensland, Australia, pictured here. As the sport has evolved, surfers have taken on bigger waves, giants that exceed 50 feet in height at now-famous surf breaks like Jaws, Mavericks, and the latest in Nazare, Portugal.

Surfing is believed to have originated in Polynesia more than 1,500 years ago, most likely in Tahiti and was observed by Westerners as early as the 1700s in Hawaii. Native Hawaiians are credited for creating the sport as we know it today. Duke Kahanamoku, Olympic swimmer, great waterman, and one of Hawaii's earliest celebrities, helped spread surfing's popularity to California and Australia in the early 1900s. Today, surfing is an Olympic sport, has a professional tour for both men and women, and is an integral part of popular culture. But for the lucky souls who know how to ride a wave, it's simply the best way to spend a day at the beach.

国际冲浪日

在人类自学的所有技巧中，很少有比冲浪更让人愉悦和印象深刻的了。冲浪是一项运动，一种消遣，一门艺术，一种人生哲学，就像一个人在未驯服的海洋上所能表演的一样，它离魔法很近。今天，冲浪运动因国际冲浪日而备受青睐，每年的国际冲浪日都是纪念这项运动、冲浪生活方式和海洋本身的日子，海洋本身的健康对这项运动和其他许多运动都至关重要。冲浪者与海洋及其产生的波浪有着特殊的联系。冲浪的波浪依赖于这么多：数百或数千英里以外的风产生的能量使涌浪运动，这些涌浪可能需要几天才能到达海岸线；然后是礁石或陆地或水下巨砾的点，在其上，涌浪将变成完美形状的波浪。风和时间是一切，热衷于冲浪的人对天气和海岸了如指掌。

从冰岛到爱尔兰，从巴西到塞内加尔，冲浪可以在任何波涛汹涌的地方进行。但也有一些以海浪闻名的景点，如夏威夷、塔希提、加利福尼亚和澳大利亚昆士兰的黄金海岸，如图所示。随着这项运动的发展，冲浪者们已经开始接受更大的海浪，在如今著名的冲浪休息处，身高超过50英尺的巨人，如大白鲨、小牛队，以及最近在葡萄牙的纳粹队。

据信，冲浪运动起源于1500多年前的波利尼西亚，最有可能发生在塔希提岛，早在17世纪，西方人就在夏威夷观察到了冲浪运动。据我们今天所知，夏威夷土著人创造了这项运动。20世纪初，奥林匹克游泳运动员、伟大的沃特曼、夏威夷最早的名人之一杜克·卡哈纳莫库（DukeKahanamoku）帮助将冲浪运动普及到加利福尼亚和澳大利亚。今天，冲浪是一项奥林匹克运动，男女都有专业的巡回赛，是流行文化的一个组成部分。但对于那些懂得乘风破浪的幸运儿来说，这是在海滩度过一天的最佳方式。

罗弗敦群岛的北极冲浪之旅，挪威罗弗敦大师赛 Arctic surfing trip in the Lofoten Islands, Norway for the Lofoten Masters (© Nicolás Pina/Tandem Stills + Motion)

Chilling out in the Arctic

Surfers from Norway and around the world gather each September in Unstad, a tiny village in Norway's Lofoten Islands, to compete in the Lofoten Masters, which bills itself as 'the world's northern most surfing competition.' Described by some as the best surf break in Norway, the island village, where sheep easily outnumber villagers, boasts two surf shops to help both novices and experts prepare for the extreme conditions. And surfing isn't just a summer sport at this famous, and frequently photographed, beach located inside the Arctic Circle--during winter months, surfers come here for the unique experience of surfing under the Aurora Borealis.